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Shade Trees - Nut Trees Grapes
Green Arrow Nursery NorthHills
8845 Sepulveda Blvd.
North Hills, CA 91343
MULTIPLE-BUDDED FRUIT TREES
Please inquire about our 2-n-1, 3-n-1 and 4-n-1's
(two, three or four varieties on a single tree).
ANNA APPLE Remarkable fruit for mild winter climates in S. CA., S.
AZ. Heavy crops of sweet, crisp, flavorful apples even in low desert.
Fresh/cooked. Keeps 2 months in refrigerator. 200 hours. Self-fruitful or
pollenized by Dorsett Golden or Einshemer. USDA Zones 5 - 10.
BEVERLY HILLS APPLE Long-time favorite summer apple for
coastal S. CA. Pale yellow, red blush or stripes. Medium size, slightly tart.
Fresh/cooked. 300 hours. Self-fruitful. USDA Zones 5 - 10
DORSETT GOLDEN APPLE Outstanding sweet apple for warm
winter areas. Firm, very flavorful, sweet like Golden Delicious.
Productive throughout So. CA and Phoenix, AZ. Good early season sweet
apple for Central CA. 100 hours. Self-fruitful. USDA Zones 5 - 10
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Some Fun Thanksgiving Facts for You:
- The Pilgrims' first Thanksgiving feast, in 1621, lasted three days.
- On October 3, 1863 Abraham Lincoln issued a "Thanksgiving Proclamation" that made the last Thursday in November a national holiday.
- In 1939, President Franklin D. Roosevelt changed Thanksgiving to the third Thursday in November, in order to make the Christmas shopping season longer and thus stimulate the economy. Two years later, he changed it to the fourth Thursday.
- In 1941, Thanksgiving was finally sanctioned by Congress as a legal holiday, on the fourth Thursday in November.
- There were no mashed potatoes at the first Thanksgiving dinner--potatoes were brought here later, by Irish immigrants.
- Turkeys were one of the first animals in the Americas to be domesticated.
- Benjamin Franklin thought the turkey a noble bird and wanted it to be the national bird of America, rather than the eagle!
- Native Americans used the red juice of the cranberry to dye rugs and blankets.
- Thanksgiving in Canada is celebrated on the second Monday in October.
- The pilgrims didn't use forks; they used spoons, knives and their fingers, so if anyone objects to your picking up that drumstick--tell them you are simply practicing traditional American table manners!
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Invasive plants--just the term brings to mind visions of horror
movies such as the classic Little Shop of Horrors or, more
recently, The Ruins. But here in the "real" world,
what, exactly, is an invasive plant? Should it be a valid concern
and, if it is, what can we do about it?
Invasive plants are no different than their counterparts in the
animal and disease arenas. An invasive plant is generally defined as
one that has the ability to grow aggressively outside its natural
range. Oftentimes, its ability to do this stems from the fact that it
is growing outside its native range, because the diseases,
insects and foraging animals that naturally would control its growth
and spread are not present in its new habitat.
There are many factors in determining whether a plant is invasive or
not. What do we mean? For starters, some plants are more invasive
than others; some considered as moderately invasive can be controlled
easily with a little well-timed maintenance. Climate and location
play an important role. Many plants are considered invasive in some
parts of the country and not in others. Five generally recognized
attributes of invasive plants are:
They produce large numbers of new plants each year.
They tolerate a wide range of soil types and weather conditions.
They spread quickly by means of wind, water, animals or even
They grow quickly, thereby displacing slower-growing plants.
They spread more rapidly than they do when grown in their native
habitats, because of the absence of natural checks and balances.
Why should you be concerned? Invasive plants can disrupt many natural
habitats, ultimately affecting wildlife populations and choking out
native plant species. Most people would agree with the statement,
"Variety is the spice of life." Where allowed to run
rampant, invasive plant species can severely restrict this
biodiversity, both in terms of plant life and the wildlife that
depend on it to survive. They are especially problematic in areas
such as wetlands, sand dunes and fire-prone areas--in fact, over $100
million per year is spent in the U.S. combating invasive plants in
Where do these invasive plants come from? Sometimes, their arrival at
their "new homes" is completely accidental, as seed in
agricultural products or in shipments from overseas. Other times,
they are sold at garden centers. Because of gardening enthusiasts’
ongoing quest for hardy, drought-tolerant, fast-growing specimens,
these plants are often propagated and offered to the public to
fulfill these desires. Only later is it discovered that these plants
may offer a little too much of a good thing. Kudzu (known as
"the vine that ate the South") is one of the more infamous
examples of this. It was originally introduced as a ornamental shade
vine for porches, arbors and such. Now it's shading (and killing) trees all over the Southeast.
What can you do? This is where we come in. Next time you shop for
plants, let us know that you would like to avoid potentially invasive
plants in your garden. Or ask us how to keep those "hardy, drought-tolerant, fast-growing" plants from becoming invasive. For instance, much of the mint family can be invasive--but they are reasonably safe to grow in pots, or in an area of the garden where you can easily remove "volunteers." And, of course, they are quite safe to grow indoors! Make use of our expertise to help guide you in
selecting plants and growing methods that will not present a problem in the future--and
help preserve the plants and wildlife indigenous to our area!
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If you're being awakened in the middle of the night to the sound of turned over garbage cans accompanied by high-pitched chirping sounds, chances are you've been paid a visit by those little bandits called raccoons.
Raccoons are generally active at night, when they are most likely to raid your garbage area, looking for discarded fruit, vegetables, and anything else that might make a tasty snack. Their contact with humans is normally motivated by two basic things: food and/or shelter. Getting rid of raccoons starts with securing the sources of these temptations, and if that doesn't deter them, there are a few other alternatives.
The key to keeping raccoons away is to make your home a less inviting place to visit. Keep your garbage cans sealed with bungee cords if stored outside, or store them in the garage or storage shed. Make sure all of your foundation and basement vents are in good shape and have no holes in them; otherwise, raccoons might nest under your home. If you have a dog or cat door into the garage, make sure not to store food or feed pets in there.
If you have taken care of the basics, and the pesky critters still want to hang out, you might want to consider a few other options. There are a number of humane traps that will help you trap them live and allow you to transport them to a wooded area away from your home. Be careful, though, and wear thick gloves when handling traps, because raccoons will try to bite if agitated.
Motion-sensing lights and sound devices will also help keep raccoons away. Nocturnal by nature, they don't like bright lights. You can also apply a raccoon repellent to garbage cans and around the yard to deter them. Many wildlife specialists use this method because the repellent uses the scent of a predator such as a coyote, wolf, or mountain lion to mark your garden as a predator's territory.
So don't be kept up at night because raccoons are having a party at your house. Take action today and keep those raccoons away!
Important Note: Two illnesses common to raccoons are distemper and rabies. If you see raccoons, keep your pets inside. Raccoons are primarily nocturnal, so if you see one in a populated area during the day, especially if it is acting strangely, be sure to avoid it and report it to a wildlife specialist.
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- Choose and plant sasanqua camellias and early long-blooming azaleas.
- Purchase poinsettias early in the month.
- Continue to plant winter vegetables.
- Cut off flower spikes that have bloomed from dwarf foxgloves and delphiniums.
- Don't prune tropicals.
- Prune grapes, low-chill raspberries, and native plants.
- Prune wisteria by cutting off unwanted long twiners. Prune roots of vines that fail to bloom.
- Mow cool-season lawns, including Bermuda that's overseeded with winter ryegrass.
- Do not mow warm-season lawns, except St. Augustine (if it continues to grow).
- Continue fertilizing cymbidiums until flowers open.
- Feed cool-season flowers with a complete fertilizer for growth and bloom.
- Feed shade plants for bloom; give adequate light.
- Feed cool-season lawns, but don't feed warm-season lawns (except for Bermuda that's overseeded with winter ryegrass).
- Don't water succulents growing in the ground.
- Keep cymbidiums damp but not soggy.
- Remember to keep all bulbs, especially potted ones, well watered.
- Water dichondra if rains aren't adequate.
- Turn off the irrigation systems of all other types of warm-season lawns once they have gone brown.
- Spray peach and apricot trees for peach leaf curl if you didn't do so in November.
- Protect cymbidiums' bloom spikes from snails.
- Control rust on cool-season lawns by fertilizing and mowing them.
- Control aphids with insecticidal soap and beneficial insects.
- Prepare beds for planting bare-root roses next month.
- Harvest winter vegetables as soon as they mature.
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Do I really need two fruit tree varieties to produce fruit?
There are also a few varieties of apples, cherries, pears and plums that don't require a pollinator. But most other deciduous fruit trees do need a second pollinating tree, and most of those require specific varieties to pollinate with. The trees don't need to be right next to each other, but should be fairly near each other to promote the best pollinating results.
Yes and no. Citrus trees like lemons, limes, and oranges are self-fertile and require no pollinator (which also makes them popular for indoor growing). Most apricots, figs, nectarines, peaches and persimmons are self-fertile; only a few varieties need a second tree to help them produce fruit.
Our staff of garden experts knows which trees make the best "mates" for others, and will be happy to help you with any questions.
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"A garden is always a series of losses set against a few triumphs, like life itself."
What You'll Need:
- 5 medium yellow squashes
- 1 cup grated Pepper Jack cheese
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon pepper
- 2 tablespoons butter
Step by Step:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil.
- Slice yellow squash in thin rounds [be certain to discard both ends].
- Place squash in boiling water for 15 minutes or until fork tender.
- Remove squash from water, drain in a colander.
- In a baking dish, mash squash with a potato masher.
- Fold in grated cheese, butter, salt and pepper.
- Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, or until brown and bubbly on top.