SHADE CYMBIDIUMS.
These orchid blooms last longer given a little extra shade while in flower. Move them back into good light when they finish, fertilize every month between now and September, and water often. To flower well they must have enough sun to turn leaves slightly yellow. When plants get within an inch of pot sides, divide and repot, a job best done immediately after flowering stops.
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"All gardeners know better than other gardeners." — Chinese Proverb
Cutting Through Confusion: Datura vs. Brugmansia
By Tamara Galbraith
No doubt about it: an Angel's Trumpet by any name smells wonderful and looks gorgeous. But there's been a lot of flap and a little confusion along the way about the difference between these two species.
At one time, up until about 25 years ago, even the taxonomists had "datura" and "brugmansia" lumped together as the same plant. It has only been lately that they were eventually separated into the two new genuses. Here's a brief primer on telling the two lovelies apart:
Brugmansias are long-lived, woody perennial trees that can eventually reach over 20 feet. They bear downward- to slightly outward-facing, large, (anywhere from 6" to 24" long) trumpet-shaped blooms of white, cream, yellow, peach, orange, pink, or red.
Daturas — sometimes also called thorn apples or jimson weeds — are short-lived herbaceous perennials, usually grown as an annual in most zones. They rarely reach over 6 feet. Daturas bear smaller (2" to 8" long), upward- to slightly outward-facing trumpet-shaped flowers, in shades of white, cream, yellow, lavender, and dark purple. In some parts of the world, they are considered a weed.
Unlike brugmansias, daturas set seed freely. Their seed pods are generally round to oval and any seed you harvest from your datura can be planted and will remain true to the original plant. Both can come in "double" or even "triple" form, where the flower has extra ruffling layers.
Daturas like hot conditions; brugmansias not so much.
One thing to remember is that both types of plants are poisonous, so don't place them near curious pets or children, and wash your hands after handling them. These plants have been used as hallucinogens in some parts of the world. But for most gardeners, their beauty and scent is intoxicating enough!
We see the term in plant care descriptions all the time: "Must have well-draining soil."
So, just what does "well-draining" mean, and how do we know if we have it?
In a nutshell, well-drained soil can be said to exist where water is removed from the soil readily (but not rapidly) and soils are not wet for significant periods of time. The best well-draining garden soil will consist of a nice balance of sand, clay, silt and organic matter.
But how do you tell if your soil is in need of improvement? Try this test in various locations in your garden when conditions are dry: dig holes one foot deep by two feet wide. Fill the hole to the top with water, then time how long it takes for the water to completely drain. The ideal time should be between 10 and 30 minutes.
If the water drains in less than 10 minutes, it's likely that your soil has a lot of sand in it. Adding organic matter (we recommend Kellogg's Amend) will help immensely. Either till it into the soil or just add it on top in the fall or spring and allow nature to take its course.
On the flip side, if the water takes 30 minutes or more to drain from the holes you dug, you probably have soil that is heavy on the clay side. As with a sandy situation, organic matter will do wonders for your soil. So will raised beds comprised of a balanced garden soil.
Two things to stay away from in amending clay soil, however: rototillers and sand. A tiller will be a total waste of time in a bed heavy with clay. As a resident of an area with heavy clay soil (and former tiller owner), take my word for it.
Secondly, although many people think the well-draining qualities of sand will balance out the heavy water retention of clay, the opposite is true. What you create when you add sand to clay soils is basically...cement. Don't do it. Again, dig in a good organic amendment or add it on top of your clay-ish beds each fall or spring and have some patience. The earthworms and Mother Nature will do their stuff in time.
Beneficial Insect Profile: Green Lacewings
It's been an unusually warm January here in my area, but I was still surprised to come across a green lacewing hanging out in the garden the other day. Every gardener should be familiar with these beneficial and beautiful insects; like ladybugs, their larvae do a good bit of munching on such pests as aphids, thrips, whitefly nymphs and spider mites.
There are two common species of green lacewings in the U.S.: Chrysoperla carnea and Chrysoperla rufilabris. If you employ Integrated Pest Management on your property -- that is, using the least toxic methods of dealing with pests -- it's likely one or both types will show up on their own. C. carnea is recommended for dry areas, while C. rufilabris is great for controlling pests in greenhouses and other high-humidity environments. However, if lacewings don't seem to be coming to your party on their own, adults or eggs can also be purchased for release in early Spring when pests start to emerge.
The adult lacewings feed on nectar rather than pests, so when purchasing adults, allow some time for them to begin their reproductive stage. The gorgeous adult lacewings have large, transparent, heavily-veined pale green wings and a delicate body. Adults are agile, fluttering fliers, particularly during the evening. During the spring and summer, females lay several hundred small eggs on leaves or twigs near an area that looks ripe with good munchies, such as an aphid-infested vine.
The oval-shaped eggs are laid singly at the end of long silken stalks. You may have spotted this strange phenomenon on a dewy morning walk through the garden; the sight of a line of lacewing eggs on the underside of a leaf is something to behold. Lacewing larvae, which resemble ladybug nymphs in shape, are very active. They emerge in 3-6 days with a voracious appetite, with gray or brownish coloring and large pinchers for, well, you know...cleaning up the bad guys from your garden. Each lacewing larva can devour up to 600 aphids during this stage of their growth, which generally lasts from two to four weeks.
By Tamara Galbraith
Many nurseries in warmer zones of the U.S. have their potato "seeds" out for purchase now. You can get anything from Purple Peruvian to Russian Banana fingerlings. Whatever the variety, make sure the seeds you purchase are marked as "certified" and are firm and unsprouted. Late winter is a good time to start spuds.
If the seed potatoes are small- to medium-sized, plant the whole potato. If they are larger--say, bigger than your fist--you can cut them into pieces, ensuring each section has two or three "eyes" or growth bumps. After cutting, let the potatoes cure for a day or two, so the cut surface calluses over. You can also let them start to sprout in a warm indoor area to give them a head start before planting.
A fun and easy way to grow potatoes is in an above-ground bin, a method that has been popular with Scandinavians for hundreds of years. This a great growing alternative for those of us with small backyards.
The container can be almost anything, from a garbage bag, wire cage, or trash can to a stack of clean tires. Whatever container you choose should be at least 2' in diameter and 4' feet tall. Garden or potting soil (we recommend Miracle Gro Potting Mix) is placed in the bottom. Bury the seeds, cut side down, about two inches deep and one foot apart and cover with a thick (12") layer of chopped leaves, pine needles or straw. Water thoroughly and make sure that whatever container you use has adequate drainage; for example, a garbage bag will need to have holes punched in the bottom.
As the potatoes sprout and the foliage begins to emerge above the soil, add more chopped leaves or straw and water weekly. Continue to add material as the foliage gets taller, always leaving about 2 inches of the plant showing. Potatoes generally take about 100 days to mature, but you can harvest them as soon as the spuds are big enough to eat. However, a good gauge of knowing when your potatoes are close to mature (when they must be harvested) is when the plants turn brown and die. At that point, you should let everything sit for two weeks as the potatoes complete their final bit of curing. Then harvest your spuds gently, and enjoy!
Recipe of the Week: Oven-Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Onions
What You'll Need:
4 medium peeled sweet potatoes, cut into 2-inch pieces (about 2-1/4 pounds)
2 medium sweet onions, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 1 pound)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon garlic-pepper blend
1/2 teaspoon salt
Step by Step:
Preheat oven to 425°F.
Combine all ingredients in a 13" x 9" baking dish, tossing to coat.
Bake for 35 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally.
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