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Quotation of the Week: "The flowers of late winter and early spring occupy places in our hearts well out of proportion to their size." — Gertrude S. Wister

Double Digging Basics

by Tamara Galbraith You've probably heard the term "double digging" before. And if you heard it during a conversation among gardeners, the words were probably followed by a collective groan. Double digging is so named because trenches are dug at double the depth of a common spade or shovel. Originated by the French in the late 19th century, this technique is one of the oldest -- and best -- methods for creating raised beds with good drainage and well-aerated, healthy soil. You'll need a heavy square-edged shovel and a strong spading fork for this project. Make sure the soil isn't too dry or too wet before you prepare to dig; then mark off the area to be worked. For the first row, dig a trench one shovel length deep and two wide, placing the squares of turf in a wheelbarrow as you go. Use a spading fork to loosen the soil at the bottom of your first row, until the depth of the trench is about 12". Add about 1" of compost to the row. Dig a second trench of the same size alongside the first. As you dig, flip the turf and topsoil into the first trench, grass-side down, if applicable. Again, loosen the soil at the bottom of the new trench and add a small layer of compost. You can continue this dig-and-flip progression for the entire length of your planned garden bed. When you get to the last row, use the turf and topsoil dug up and set aside from the first row. Just be sure to add compost in each row to boost the soil's fertility and macrobiotic activity. Thankfully, you won't need to repeat this technique every year, as your double-dug beds should last for a couple of growing seasons, at least...which is probably more than you can say for your aching back.

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Let Us Grow Lettuce

by Tamara Galbraith With warm weather just around the corner, but temperatures still in the cool range, it's a great time to start some lettuce seeds in your garden. Lettuce is easy to start, matures quickly, and offers a "cut-and-come-again" growth habit that can give you several salads from the same plant. Looseleaf, butterheads and romaines are the easiest and most nutritious lettuces to grow. What is commonly referred to as iceberg lettuce is generally a waste of time for the backyard gardener, as it is fussy and, frankly, not nearly as tasty. Germination of lettuce seed requires two elements: lots of moisture and light. Do not bury lettuce seeds, but rather scatter them over some fertile, fluffy, moist soil (you may want to amend with Kellogg Earthrich before planting), then sift some compost lightly on top of the seed and press down gently. You will probably see germination in about a week if soil temperatures are around 50 degrees. Alternatively, you can buy already-started plants. Lettuce can and should be grown outdoors in a sunny location as long as temperatures stay above freezing at night — if an unexpected freeze comes, simply toss a few layers of frost cloth on top of the plants and they should be fine. Make sure the soil stays evenly moist as the plants develop. Thin seedlings to allow about 6" between plants (or plant 6" apart if you aren't starting from seed), but don't worry too much about overcrowding. Leaf lettuces are particularly fast-growing; they reach maturity in 45-60 days, while romaine and butterhead/bibb types can take up to 70 days. You can harvest individual leaves to eat, or give each plant a crewcut about 2" above the soil line and let it regrow. There are many beautiful, tasty types of lettuce in all sorts of shapes and colors. Check with us to see what varieties are best for our area, as some are more heat-resistant — a definite benefit to those in the sun-baked South — while others are cold-hardy and good for growing in northern climates. Most varieties of lettuce are generally disease- and insect-resistant. The biggest enemy of lettuce is heat, which is why early late winter or spring is the perfect time to start lettuce. Once regular warmth comes along — say 80 degrees or more — lettuce will quickly "bolt," meaning the plant suddenly puts on a growth spurt, then sends up flowers and goes to seed. At that point, it tastes so bitter and chewy that even the bunnies won't touch it. Note for those with limited space: lettuce may be grown in containers (1 gallon or larger). This also has the advantage that you can move the containers to a cooler spot when the weather gets warm, thus keeping them from bolting for a little bit longer.

Gobble Gobble: Brown Turkey Fig Tips

by Tamara Galbraith The best-loved and most common fig grown in the U.S. has to be the Brown Turkey. And no, the Turkey referenced in the name isn't the Thanksgiving bird, it's the country of origin...although there are vicious rumors that the Brown Turkey Fig (Ficus carica) is actually French. Gardeners across the country might also know this variety as Lee's Perpetual, Eastern Brown Turkey, Brunswick, Ramsey, Harrison, Texas Everbearing, or the Everbearing Fig. Lovers of Mediterranean climates, figs will thrive in the hottest and sunniest part of your garden, will usually fruit the first year, and typically produce two crops of the tasty, brownish-purple fruit in the summer and again in the fall. The Brown Turkey's fruit has a short, plump stem, few seeds and a mild sweet flavor. Early crop fruit is very large, sometimes 2 inches in diameter. Brown Turkey fig trees are generally hardy from Zone 7a and warmer, (although some gardeners report success up into Zone 5). Until the plant is well-established, it must have a constant supply of water to fruit properly. Soil dryness will result in fruit drop. Don't keep it soggy either, however. And remember that an organic fungicide spraying program will control rust, one of the few problems fig trees experience. Brown Turkeys, in particular, are good both fresh or made into preserves.

Care for Avocado Trees

A mature avocado tree needs to have at least two pounds of nitrogen a year and varying amounts of other nutrients such as phosphorus and zinc. For the home gardener, the easiest way to feed your avocado is to use a mixed fertilizer specifically recommended for citrus and avocados that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and zinc (we recommend Bandini Citrus & Fruit Tree Fertilizer). Be sure to follow the package directions. In coastal zones, gardeners should divide the amount of fertilizer for the year into five equal applications and give one feeding each month from February through June. Interior gardeners should divide the total amount into four monthly applications and give one feeding per month from March through June. With slow-release fertilizers you can divide the fertilizer into two equal doses. Give the first dose early this month if you live along the coast, late this month if you live inland, and give the second dose in June. If you choose to go with single-use fertilizers, you can feed avocados by spreading 25 pounds of aged chicken manure under each mature tree in February. Beginning in March, give each tree one trowelful each of Whitney Farms Citrus & Fruit Tree Fertilizer blood meal and bone meal every six weeks, through August. If the mulch is very thick, rake it off, sprinkle the food underneath, then replace the mulch on top. The main things an avocado desires are rich soil, excellent drainage, and a thick layer of mulch over the roots. Allow the leaves that fall to remain under the tree; don't rake them up. (Avocados are best planted at the back of the garden where their large leaves won't look too messy.) Add additional mulch to young trees. Remember, never cultivate or dig under avocado trees, because that would damage the roots and all your fruit might fall off. It's best not to grow anything under an avocado tree, especially if that something needs frequent irrigation. Wet soil promotes root rot of avocado.

What You'll Need: One 3-4 lb. Beef Regal Rump Roast 3 tbsp. coarse ground black pepper 3 tbsp. garlic salt 2-3 cups Guinness 1 bay leaf 1/4 cup olive oil 2 cups cut carrots 1 green bell pepper, sliced in strips 2-3 potatoes, cubed 1 tbsp. flour

Step by Step:

Heat oven to 350F. Rinse roast and pat dry. Mix pepper and garlic salt; rub onto all sides of roast. Place roast on bottom of clay or metal roasting pan; add oil, bay leaf, 2 cups Guinness and 1 cup water (or 3 cups Guinness for stronger flavor). Roast covered for 90 minutes. Add vegetables, roast covered for 30 minutes. Add more liquid, if necessary. Remove meat and veggies to a platter. Gravy: Pour liquid into a small saucepan, heat to near boiling. Mix well: 1/2 cup COLD water and flour. Add flour/water mixture slowly to saucepan, stirring constantly. Reduce to simmer, stir until thickened. Yield: 4 servings