Fertilize warm-season grasses like Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Marathon lawns with Bandini Super Blade. Mow Bermuda grass lawns: begin by setting the mower about ¾ inch his month; set it progressively higher as summer proceeds so you cut only leaf blades, not stems.
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Prune winter- and spring-flowering vines, bushes, trees and ground covers after they finish blooming. A good rule of thumb that applies in almost all cases is: Prune flowering plants that bloom once a year after they bloom, not before they bloom, or you'll prevent them from flowering. Refer to a pruning manual for additional directions by plant type; The Sunset Pruning Handbook is particularly helpful. Here are a few examples of plants to be pruned now.
Polyanthum Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)
Lightly cut back this fragrant, winter-blooming vine after bloom, to remove unsightly dead blossoms and produce a second wave of bloom. Then cut it back hard, almost to bare wood - to clean up the plant, prevent it from building up a tangled interior, and produce new wood to bloom next year.
Lady Banks Rose (Rosa banksiae) Cut this rose back hard after bloom to keep it in bounds, produce a second, lighter wave of bloom, and produce new wood to bloom next year.
New Zealand Tea Trees (Leptospermum scoparium)
Shape these during bloom by cutting sprays for cut flowers. After bloom you can further shape them by cutting out whole unwanted branches and by heading back tips of selected branches to increase bushiness and develop a natural billowy shape. Don't ever shear leptospermum shrubs or trees like a ball - this practice ruins their growth habit and prevents proper flowering.
Wisteria Train young plants onto a strong support. Prevent long streamers from twining around each other, and tie them lightly where you want them. Once a vine has reached the size and shape you desire, begin in May to cut back all unwanted new growth to two or three buds from the main branch, to create bloom spurs that will flower for many years. (This will stimulate sporadic summer bloom.)
Trailing African Daisy (Osteospermum fruticosum) Give osteospermum a yearly pruning in early May after bloom to prevent the buildup of thatch, which could lead to death from summer fungus. Clean up the ground; remove clippings and dead leaves. Mulch with nitrolized wood shavings, and follow up with fertilizer. You'll get another show of bloom.
Geraldton Waxflower (Chamelaucium uncinatum)
One of our loveliest drought-resistant plants, this one responds well to heavy pruning after bloom. Cut back whole sprays - not all the way down to the ground but into the body of the plant and back to the trunk. If you have room, let it grow big like a small shaggy-barked tree, but if it's outgrown its space it can be chopped back to 2 feet high now. Fresh shoots will spring from apparently dry wood below the cuts, and you'll have a whole new plant by fall. (Don't ever give this plant manure. It hates the stuff.)
How To Get Zinnia To Grow From Seed
Choose a spot in full sun that is not hit by overhead sprinklers.
Dig the ground deeply and mix in a generous layer of organic soil amendment such as Kellogg Amend. Add a complete fertilizer recommended for annual flowers, according to package directions, and mix it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Use the garden hoe to make a dike of soil 3 or 4 inches high all the way around the seedbed; it will hold the water in when you irrigate. Rake the seedbed level. (If you can, install a drip system that will water the bed at ground level — drip systems make water basins unnecessary.)
Pour some seeds into the palm of your hand. Grasping them one by one place each seed right where you want it to grow, in a continuous diamond pattern all over the bed or drift. (As for all bedding plants and ground covers, alternate the rows when planting so that the plants grow all over, evenly, rather than standing like soldiers in foursquare rows.) Follow the directions on the package as to spacing. (Large varieties should be spaced about 12 inches apart, small varieties about 6 inches.)
Cover the seeds very lightly with about 1/4 inch of soil- zinnias need light in order to germinate- and pat it down gently. (If you're planting in clay soil, cover the seeds with potting mix rather than soil so they won't have to break through a hard crust.)
Mist the seedbed thoroughly after planting. Continue to mist it at least twice daily ( more often if it's hot and dry) until the seeds germinate. (Covering the bed with a floating row cover can help keep the seeds damp and speed germination in hot, dry weather. After seeds have germinated, take the row cover off.)
Sprinkle the ground with granulated cutworm bait containing Sevin or diazinon. (If using a row cover, sprinkle on the bait before covering the bed.) Bait again a week or two later.
Once the zinnias are up and firmly rooted, stop misting and start irrigating with the drip system or by putting the hose on the ground inside the dike. (Aim the hose into a sideways flower pot to break the force of the water.) A good rule of thumb for zinnias is: Always water zinnias on the ground, never overhead, or you'll ruin the foliage.
When the plants are 3 or 4 inches high, start watering them more infrequently and deeply until you're applying 1 to 2 inches of water per week, depending on your soil and climate zone.
To encourage branching, pinch out the first flower bud on each plant or pinch above the third set of leaves.
Pick and deadhead zinnias throughout the summer.
Watering Your Plants —The Basics
Most gardeners have stocked up their garages with all sorts of products to save their plants from natural enemies like hungry insects and overpowering weeds. What many gardeners don't know is this: even more important than defending against enemies is to see that plants get what they need for photosynthesis, especially water. Watering is an art, because under-watering causes water deficiency and over-watering can cause roots to rot.
These problems are easily kept in check with only a few simple steps:
Follow Mother Nature's lead — if you have a desert plant, the soil it lives in may not need watering for days at a time. If the plant is in a fairly moist climate in the wilderness, it will need to be watered more frequently. Avoid being too generous, because the leading cause of plant death is not insects or diseases but simple over-watering.
Get your hands dirty — test the soil with your finger, starting at the top for a moist-climate plant and pushing further in for a plant from a more arid climate. It is recommended to feel most plants about an inch below the surface of the soil. If the soil is moist to the touch but does not wet your finger, the water amount is correct.
Get a can that works — watering cans are especially vital in the care of indoor plants. The best watering can to use is one with a long neck. This is especially important if you have a plant that generates a lot of foliage. The best water to use is tepid water — not too warm or too cool.
Use good soil — sandy soil will let the water rush away, while clay-burdened soil will hold water too long, causing root rot. We recommend using soil amendments such as Miracle Gro Potting Mix.
Keep your weeds in check — frequent weeding will reduce competition among plants for the moisture in the soil.
Ready your plants for the daytime — water in the morning, to fortify your plants against the hot sun. Using mulch is another good defense. Mulch will keep the soil from taking too much sun and evaporating all the water, as well as helping to keep weeds down.
Rabbit Tales
By Tamara Galbraith
Bunnies are, of course, just about the cutest thing on Earth. (Incidentally, their poop makes great fertilizer too, and doesn't need to be composted before use.) But what to do when Peter Rabbit spends his evenings munching on your beautiful lettuce, peas and beans?
First, conduct a thorough examination to see whether or not you really have a rabbit problem. Rabbits generally browse no higher than a couple of feet off the ground. Their pea-sized round droppings are their calling card.
There are several critter-ridder products on the market that work with varying degrees of success. Many contain diluted fox urine, an ingredient that is safe to use around plants, people and pets, and acts a repellent for all small furry animals that foxes usually dine on. We find Shake Away to be very effective.
Vinegar, clumps of human or dog hair, and diluted aloe vera gel are also said to be effective rabbit repellents when placed strategically around the garden. Garlic pepper spray - the kind also used as an organic insecticide - is a big turn-off for bunny taste buds, as is any bottled hot sauce.
Managing Time and Space
By Tamara Galbraith
Although spring brings much hope and rebirth to the outdoors, it can be a stressful time for many gardeners. There is so much to do, and -- even with the longer hours that Daylight Saving provides -- seemingly never enough time to get it all done.
So, here are some tips for organizing your garden chores without wearing yourself out:
If you start getting overwhelmed with how much needs accomplished in your landscape, take a deep breath and grab a pencil and paper. Make a list of everything that has to be done. Then, rank the chores by importance. Will a plant die in the next day or two if it doesn't get watered? Then by all means, do that first.
If it seems like every single part of your landscape needs worked on, split the chores up into geographical sections. For example, if your bed of roses needs to be weeded AND fertilized AND watered AND sprayed for aphids, force yourself to stay focused on that area until you've achieved everything that needs to be done.
Utilize smart gardening tools, accessories and products that help make your time in the garden easier and more efficient. For example, Neem oil is effective and safe as both an insecticide and fungicide.
For all of you 9-5ers, try to avoid being a "Weekend Warrior Gardener." That is, spread your gardening chores throughout the week whenever possible. An hour here or there will take a big chunk out of your weekend duties, and besides, a bit of gardening is quite relaxing at the end of a long day spent in a stuffy office.
Recipe of the Week: Warm Mushroom Salad
What You'll Need:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms
1 clove garlic, chopped (optional)
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
2 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar salt and pepper to taste
10 ounces of baby greens (lettuce, spinach, etc.) or if you don't grow your own - use a 10 oz. package of mixed baby greens.
Step by Step:
Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms, and cook; stirring until soft.
Continue cooking until the juices from the mushrooms have reduced to about 2 tablespoons.
Stir in the remaining olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper until evenly blended.
Turn off heat, and let the mushrooms sit in the pan until they are just warm, but no longer hot, otherwise the greens will wilt too much.
Put the baby greens into a serving bowl, and pour the warm mushroom mixture over them. Toss to blend, and serve immediately.
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