By Tamara Galbraith

It's not the heat...it's the humidity. You've heard it a thousand times, right? But for plants brought inside for the winter, the saying is especially true.

Most plants thrive in 80% relative humidity. The average home's winter humidity level? A pretty desert-like 20-60%. So you know plants are suffering. Fortunately, there are some easy ways to raise humidity around your plants.

Humidifiers are wonderful additions to any household, and a benefit to humans as well as plants. There are both cold mist and heating humidifiers, and they work as their name implies: one sends a cool mist into the atmosphere, while the other heats the water and shoots warm vapor into the air...an especially nice treat for both tropical plants and folks suffering with the flu.

One of the most popular methods is to use a pebble tray. Fill a drainage saucer with small pebbles or rocks, then water. Over time, the water will evaporate and increase the humidity around the plant.

You can also group plants closely together to build up the humidity in one area. Two big don'ts: Don't place plants near outside doors where they might get frequent blasts of chilly air, and don't place them near furnace output vents, where they will dry out faster than you can say "Mojave Desert."

By Tamara Galbraith

Chrysanthemums are one of the staples of the late fall garden. Their hardiness and color range make them perfect for both the landscape and container holiday arrangements.

These tough plants will thrive in less than ideal conditions, although they prefer full to partial sun and good, well drained soil. Their shallow root system dictates that they be watered often. Apply a balanced fertilizer, like Whitney Farms All Purpose Fertilizer, on a regular basis.

After plants are done blooming, pinch or shear back so the mum will eventually develop a bushier shape. Once fall arrives again, don't trim them anymore so buds can develop, and switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus to promote blooming.

Mums will survive winter in most zones; however, if you are in one of the extreme northerly areas, apply a thick layer of mulch over your mums to protect them or dig them up and put them in the garage for the winter.

Aphids are the main mum munchers. Other than those little beasts, mums experience little other insect damage.

Believe it or not, the one thing that can really affect the flowering of your mums is nighttime light, so do not plant them where they will be exposed to streetlights or foundation lighting. Like us humans, mums need a good night's sleep to be at their best.

By Tamara Galbraith

Variegated plant fans are numerous throughout the gardening world. There is just something about foliage with a creamy margin or golden stripes or dappled spots that sets some of us on fire.

And how about a variegated shrub that graces you with its beauty all year round? Sounds too good to be true, right? Then you need to be introduced to Pittosporum tobira 'Variegata', or Variegated Japanese Mock Orange.

The glossy, spoon-shaped leaves are edged with a gorgeous off-white margin, and clusters of creamy white flowers appear in spring with a fragrance similar to orange blossoms. Yum!

Pittosporum is highly salt-tolerant, so they are great along the ocean. However, they do not like to have their feet kept wet.

There is one catch to this incredible plant - it's only hardy down to about 20 degrees, so gardeners in Zones 7 and less will need to bring it in for the winter. But that's a small price to pay for this glorious hedge, which can get up to 30 feet high if left to its own devices...and it can get there fast. Some experts recommend trimming the bottom branches off of Pittosporum, allowing it to take on the form of a small tree, with the top branches untouched to allow proper flowering.

By Tamara Galbraith

The All-America Rose Selections seem to get more beautiful every year, don't they? And the 2007 winner "Strike It Rich" will post big returns on your investment.

Which is just stuffy stock talk for: you'll really love this rose and it will last a long time. "Strike It Rich" - bred from the 1950 AARS award-winner "Sutter's Gold" - is a vibrant yellow/orange grandiflora with ruby red swirls on the outer bloom petals and unusual red stems on the entire plant.

"Strike It Rich" is described by the AARS as having a "strong, sweet, spice and fruit" fragrance, making it sound more like a cantaloupe, but the appearance is all rose: upright, bushy and, like all AARS winners, highly disease resistant.

"Strike It Rich" was introduced by hybridizing guru Tom Carruth, and is hardy to US Zone 5, or even Zone 4, with some winter protection. Like a treasure chest full of gold medallions, "Strike It Rich" will bring priceless shine to your garden.

What looks like a butterfly, but is really a plant?

In winter, many of our plants are sleeping--except the Christmas cactus, with its profusion of butterfly-like flowers. Native to mountainous tropical rainforests, it must not be treated like an ordinary cactus. Christmas cactus likes cool weather, indirect light and a regular watering regimen.

Because it doesn't need direct sunlight, it makes a great indoor plant. It can even adapt to low light conditions but you will get more blooms if you put it in a brighter area. Direct sunlight may cause leaf burn, so keep it indirect.

With colors such as fuchsia, metallic rose, purple, apricot, white, gold, or red, the Christmas cactus will give you beautiful butterfly flowers indoors — especially in winter.

Choosing a Tree:

Living trees are becoming more popular each year. Many people don't like the idea of either a cut tree or an artificial tree. A living tree that can be planted after the holidays is a great choice for many people.

When choosing a living tree, be sure to choose one that will grow well for you. Keep in mind your own soil conditions and the area where you will be planting the tree. Ask us and we'll help you find one that will thrive for you!

Caring for a Live Tree:

Move the tree inside gradually to acclimate it to the warmer indoor air. While it is acclimating, spray it with an anti-dessicant spray to help slow water loss.

Water it often enough (indoors or out) to keep the roots moist but not soggy — root-rot will harm a tree as much as letting it get dried out. Try using ice cubes when your tree needs water; they melt slowly and you will reduce the chance of having a carpet soiled because of water overflow, as well as helping to keep the roots cool.

Before putting the tree inside, brush it off to get rid of any dead needles and dirt.

Place the tree, if potted, on a saucer or put it in a galvanized bucket or other container to keep water from getting on the floor.

Try to display the tree in a cooler part of a room, away from heat and dryness sources such as direct sunlight or vents.

A living tree should not be kept inside much longer than a week, so try to watch your timing. While it is inside it will probably need a bit more water, so check it regularly.

When you move it back outside, re-acclimate it to the outdoors by repeating the entry acclimation in reverse.