Poppies have been getting a lot of press lately, aka bad press. Usually under the title "Afghanistan, Opium, and Terrorists." That's right. Opium is derived from the opium poppy, which is actually a beautiful poppy in an ornamental sort of way.

But did you know if you walk into our garden center and simply ask "Do you have any poppies?" that we will, in all likelihood, ask you the following question: "What kind of poppy are you looking for?"

That's right, there are many different flowers that are called poppies. And they are from several different plant genera. Just look at the list below:

• Eschscholzia californica - California poppy
• Romneya coulteri - Matilija poppy
• Papaver nudicaule Iceland poppy
• Papaver orientale - ornamental poppy
• Papaver somniferum - opium poppy

There is yet another poppy, the Flanders Poppy (Papaver rhoeas). This is the red flower that sprang up in the soil of European battlefields of WWI. Now this poppy is a commemorative flower for the people who died in WWI.

The genus Papaver is the true poppy. The Papaver orientale contains the varieties that we most commonly see, especially in wildflower mixes. Though it was originally scarlet red, hybrids give us colors from white to pink, salmon, and maroon. The four purple blotches seem more like a smiling face amidst soft papery petals in several brilliant colors.

And then, of course, there is the Iceland Poppy (papaver nudicaule). This poppy loves the cool to cold weather, not the hot summer sun. These poppies devote their energy to bringing sun-shiny colors to an otherwise quiet, dull garden. They are most beautiful dancing above the pansy. Can't you just picture this? We're here--let us help!

The Iceland poppy is available in flats or 6-packs. Don't they make an absolutely striking border? You bet they do. Just remember to first amend your soil with a good soil amendment.

Eschscholzia californica or the California poppy is a native wildflower. They are a vivid orange and are easily grown from seeds. Seeds should have been planted in November/December (in western zones) but they can also be found in 6-packs. These poppies require little to no care and yet they reward you with abounding color. These wonderful poppies, if you leave the seeds to dry out on the plant, will reseed your gardens! You will probably end up with multiple crops of poppies from late spring into summer and fall.

And finally the Matilija (Ma-TILL-eee-ha) Poppy. What a spectacular poppy! This plant is actually more shrubby than the other poppies, as it can grow to 8 feet when really happy. It bears showy white flowers that are aptly described as ‘fried eggs'. Take a look and you'll see what we mean! This is also a native of California.

These flowers are sure to attract bees, butterflies and birds into your gardens. They bloom from spring into fall and have average water needs (don't over water). Because they originate in the California coastal scrub in dry washes and canyons, they are not accustomed to lots of water in their native habitat. But they are garden friendly. If you have clay soil, don't let it get too wet for this guy. If you have sandy, well draining soil regular water will suit this poppy just fine.

So, now you have the insider information on poppies. When you stroll into our garden center you know to ask, "Do you have any California (or Iceland or Matilija) poppies?" And, yes we do!

Strawberries are an excellent crop for home gardeners. Like most fruits and vegetables, they taste much better if homegrown and picked when just ripe.

You can plant strawberries three ways: in the ground, in strawberry pots, or in hanging baskets. Plant certain varieties now and you can be enjoying your fresh strawberries into autumn.

Strawberry Types:

• June-bearing strawberries produce a large, concentrated crop in late spring. You'll get more berries per season from June-bearing strawberries, but the entire crop will ripen over a short period.
• Ever-bearing strawberries produce one crop in spring and another in fall.
• Day-neutral plants are capable of producing fruit throughout most of the growing season.

We recommend planting more than one type, so you'll get a better spread in your harvest.

Growing Strawberries:
Strawberries need full sun to produce the best crop - give them at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. More sunlight will give you more, and better quality, berries.

Strawberries do best in a sandy loam with high humus content. They don't like either drought or wet feet (they will suffer root-rot in poorly-draining soil).

Water when the top inch of soil dries out - this may be daily in hot weather.

Planting Depth:
Try to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon. Set the strawberry plant in the soil so that the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown. After a month or so, the plants will begin producing runners and new plants. Feed monthly with a good organic liquid fertilizer.

In a Strawberry Pot or Basket:
We recommend using the larger pots and baskets, as the smaller ones dry out too quickly. Use an organic potting mix that provides nutrients, or fortify the potting mix with slow-release fertilizer.

In the Ground:
Strawberries don't like either drought or wet feet. We recommend amending with Kellogg Amend if your site doesn't drain well (or drains too quickly).

Beds should be placed beyond the root zone of large trees so the tree won't compete with the strawberries for nutrients and water. Choose a location that will be easy to water during dry spells.

The site selected should be free from weeds, grubs and soil-borne diseases. Strawberries are susceptible to verticillium wilt, and should not be planted where tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and potatoes have grown in the past three years, since these vegetables often carry the disease. If you don't have a 'clean' area to plant them, we recommend using strawberry pots or baskets.

This is a good time to plant strawberries. Don't work the soil if it's soggy. Wait a few days until it dries.

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Never attempt to grow the same bulbs indoors for a second year, with the exception of indoor plants like amaryllis (Hippeastrum). Forcing hardy bulbs to flower indoors drains their reserves, and results are almost always disappointing a second time. But there is no need to discard them. Plant them in the garden where they should gradually recover over a few months.

If you plan to keep your bulbs to grow in the garden, deadhead them as soon as the display is over. This will avoid energy being wasted on seed production. Do not plant directly into the garden, but acclimatize them gradually by placing in a cold frame or other cool but protected place. Regular watering and a dose of liquid feed, like Gro Power Liquid, will help them recover.

In spring, plant the bulbs out in a border or other spot where they can be left undisturbed to grow as a natural group. Some types of bulb may not produce flowers the following season, but probably will do so in subsequent years.

Don’t wait until it is time to plant your tender overwintering bulbs before checking them for rot. Storage rots are common, and easily spread from affected bulbs or corms to healthy ones.

Bulbs, corms and tubers being over-wintered in a frost-free place should be checked once a month. By eliminating diseased or soft bulbs or corms, you will prevent the rot's spreading to others.

If you discover soft or diseased bulbs in store, it’s worth dusting the others with a fungicide. Check with the label to ensure that it is suitable for the purpose, and be careful not to inhale the dust.