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Edition 7.13 The Interactive Garden Gazette March 29th, 2007

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March

PEST ALERT:
Be ready for rose slugs (actually the larvae of sawflies), which pepper rose leaves with tiny holes. Caught early in the year, they are easily controlled with a spray of light horticultural oil (non-poisonous) applied about every two weeks, or use a long-lasting systemic such as Bayer All-In-One Rose and Flower Care.

 


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Some of us are gardening in "minimalist" spaces-- but we do not have to forego a vegetable/herb garden.

Imagine a beautiful container garden display right on your patio. Instead of flowering ornamental plants, perennials and annuals, substitute into the plant palette (or palate!) herbs, vegetables, a maybe even a dwarf fruit tree. "Where do you begin?" you ask. We shall tell you.

What are your favorite vegetables and herbs? Make your list. Whoever said that they all had to grow only in the ground? Not at all. Picture this. Instead of growing a flowering vine in a pot, grow green beans, peas or even squash in espalier fashion.

The beans and peas are "twiners" and will easily grow up a trellis or other structure. Don't be afraid to plant an entire 6-pack of pole beans in your pot--or maybe even two 6-packs. The bean plants will grow upward and intertwine. Dinnertime arrives and you simply harvest what you need for that evening. You may even have so many beans, you'll need to share with friends.

But you can also tie up the vines of your favorite squash. The only trick with squash is that, once it begins to fruit, you will need to add further support for each squash. That is easily done creating a sling from panty hose or a similar material and tying the sling onto the trellis.

In the pots with your beans or squash, consider planting garlic and/or your favorite onions. You'll know when they are ready to harvest once the green foliage begins to turn brown.

Do you love to cook and use fresh herbs? An herb garden is perfect in containers. We have many herbs that are classic cooking standards and grow happily in pots. Many of the herbs need full/part sun to thrive. Some can tolerate a little more shade. Arrange them on your patio accordingly. And if you have a little time (or thyme!), move the containers to follow the sun. It is easier to move large pots if they are placed on a plant dolly. (That's a plant stand on wheels.)

Rosemary and thyme are good examples. Grow these two together in one large pot in full sun. Rosemary needs space to get a plant of decent size, and both prefer less water than other herbs. There are so many different thymes to choose from – English and lemon thymes come to mind. Another thing rosemary and thyme have in common is they do not have a great need for fertilizers.

In another large container, grow sage, oregano, nasturtium, and/or lavender. Again, these have similar watering/light needs. Oregano and nasturtium can get a bit invasive. But if they are a "must have" for your cooking, of course you will plant them anyway. And the nasturtiums offer a spectacular flower display. Who needs petunias when you can have nasturtiums? This combination also does not have a great need for fertilizer.

Onward to our next combination: basil, parsley, and perhaps even chives. These herbs can take a little less sun and each needs more water than the previous groupings we have discussed. Also, apply an organic fertilizer such as Whitney Farms Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer.

Do you love tea, cold or hot? Add another container and grow lemon verbena, lemon grass and a mint or two. Remember that mint can take over, so as it is becoming established, don't be afraid to thin it out.

And did we mention the tomato? Tomatoes of all varieties will grow in pots (if you use a large enough pot), but we recommend the determinate varieties or cherry/grape tomatoes for best results. Many determinates don't need support; for ones that do, you can put a tomato cage around the pot.

Whether you choose to grow everything we have suggested or just a few of them, you are on the road to creating a beautiful and bountiful patio culinary vegetable garden.

Bon appétit!

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Aphids come in a number of sizes and colors, winged and non-winged. All are pesky little insects to gardeners. Why are they considered a pest? Aphids are "suckers" – they suck juices from the plant leaves and stems. Some can also transmit plant viruses via that sucking mouth-piece.

What else do we know about aphids? Well, they certainly are not Speedy Gonzales! They are slow-moving, soft-bodied insects that suck juices from our plants, and excrete a clear sugary liquid that we call "honeydew." Frequently, in the presence of an aphid infected plant, you will notice a stream of ants working busily around the aphids. They are protecting the aphids because these ants want access to the honeydew.

Also, it is upon honeydew that sooty mold can grow and leave a black, sooty deposit upon the foliage of the infected plant. Many customers have mentioned that they thought this deposit was pollution. It’s not our pollution, it’s a fungal mold.

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Aphids have many natural enemies in our gardens. Adult and larval forms of ladybugs and lacewings, syrphid flies, soldier beetles and parasitoid wasps (these guys are tiny, not your average wasp) all love to eat aphids. A good approach to aphid management begins with maintaining a healthy garden and encouraging these beneficial insects to make your garden their home. This is done through plant diversity and health.

Another very easy method of aphid removal is simply using water to knock them off the infected plant. If the aphid is in the process of probing/sucking a juicy stem when you knock it off--and it probably is doing just that--the mouthpiece will be broken and the aphid will no longer be able to eat. See what a simple pest control water can be--and a safe method at that?

We carry spray oils and other insecticides that can be used for more severe infestations - ask us which is best for your needs.

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Water Plants

Spring has sprung, and with this warmer weather comes our first selection of water plants. If you have a water feature with plants, you have probably been waiting for our plants to arrive! Join us at our pond plant oasis.

For those who have been dreaming of installing a water feature, large or small, here are a few tips to follow. There are three main categories of water plants, and each category of plants fulfills a very particular role in your water garden.

A water garden can be as simple as one pot filled with water and a few water plants, or a small bubbling fountain with room for a few floating plants placed in a quiet corner of your garden next to your favorite chair. It can be as elaborate as a large pond with koi, frogs, and other of nature’s creatures. What do they all have in common? Peaceful serenity and quiet beauty.

Once you have decided upon the scale of your water feature and the area of your garden that it will inhabit, the next step is learning about all of the different water plants and their functions--including beauty, of course.

When you choose plants, apply the same rules that you might to any other area of your garden. Consider color, profile, and the eventual size of the plants. Remember to take into account that some water plants are deciduous, just like some trees and shrubs in your garden. You will want to have a good mixture of evergreen and deciduous (dormant in winter). Don't over-fill your water pond with plants, making it too full and crowding out your favorite plants.

Water plants are categorized or grouped into their "home" locations in and around the pond.

The main types are listed here:

Floating plants: These are divided into two types, those with their roots in the soil and leaves floating, and those that truly just float, leaves and roots both. Examples of the latter are water hyacinth and water lettuce.

Oxygenating plants: These plants are submerged beneath the water surface. Many bloom with small flowers above the water. They are much needed, as they take in the carbon dioxide and release oxygen, necessary for the other plants or for pond life such as fish. Pondweeds and eelgrass are two examples.

Marginal/bog plants: These live at the pond's margins, with their "feet" in the shallow water and their "heads" up out of the water. They prefer water that is 2-6 inches deep. Bog plants are marginal plants, too. They prefer to grow in wet, wet soil rather than in the standing water. Among many examples of marginal plants, here are just a few: canna, sedges, cyperus, Houttuynia cordata, irises, juncus and many more.


Greenlight Neem Concentrate

• May be applied to vegetables, fruits, nuts and spices.
• 3-in-1 product; insecticide, fungicide and miticide.
• Kills aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, scale and many other insect pests.
• Controls powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, leaf spot and other diseases.
• Completely organic, made from true Neem oil - extract of the Neem seed.

 

quote of the week

Quotation of the Week:

"When gardeners garden, it is not just plants that grow, but the gardeners themselves."
- Ken Druse

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Featured Recipe: Chocolate Cake

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What You'll Need:

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups white sugar
  • 3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup hot, brewed coffee
  • 2 eggs

Step by Step:

In a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, soda, and salt.

Add oil, milk, vanilla, coffee, and eggs; beat well. Batter will be thin.

Pour into two 9 inch greased and floured round pans.

Bake at 325 degrees F (165 degrees C) for 25 minutes, or when top springs back when done.

Cool layers on wire racks.

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