Beautiful bougainvillea, that evergreen subtropical plant from South America, comes in several different forms. The most common is a vine - a vine that does not twine or cling - but a vine nonetheless. It also comes in a shrub form and a ground cover.

The vibrant colors are not the flower, but are colorful bracts surrounding a small, inconspicuous flower. The color show begins in spring and can continue into the winter. Now, you can't ask much more of any flowering plant!

A mature vine bougainvillea in full bloom is simply a huge "WOW" factor in any garden. The vine bougainvillea is a fast grower and needs regular pruning to keep in good form. Because of this vigorous growth, any structure chosen for support must be very sturdy.

Yes, they do have thorns. Keep that in mind when you are thinking of the best location in your landscape.

Other bougainvilleas have a low-growing form which is perfect for containers. Place containers near the edge of a balcony and the bougainvillea will grow outward and down, spilling color over the outside wall of your home.

Great care must be taken when planting bougainvillea. The roots do not like much handling so do not disturb the root ball. You can cut out the bottom of the pot and plant both bougainvillea and pot. Alternatively, carefully make four vertical cuts down the side of the nursery container and carefully pull all four sides farther apart. Gently remove the plant from the growing container from the base of the root ball (not the trunk of the plant) and carefully place it into the ground or new container, remembering that the roots are very sensitive to handling.

Bougainvilleas like full sun and regular watering. If you water too much, they won't bloom. Fertilize with Gro-Power.

Bougainvilleas come in white, yellow/orange, pink, red, and purple. Plant all one color for a huge color impact, or mix and match colors, to create the look of an impressionist painting. We'll be looking for you in the "Boug" section, and we will help you with your choices!

By Tamara Galbraith

Summer's in full swing, and your previously glorious flowers are starting to look a little ragged around the edges.

Many plants will benefit - and even rebloom - after a mid-summer session of "deadheading," that is, removing spent flowers and/or stems to promote new growth.

Here's a quick guide of deadheading techniques for different types of flowers:

Pinch off individual dead flowers on: balloonflower, bellflower, daylily, delphinium, foxglove, hibiscus, hollyhock. (Also included: some irises that will rebloom in the fall, depending on the variety.)

Do an overall snip of dead blooms (about 2" below the flower) on: blanketflower, columbines, globe thistle, goldenrod, geranium, Jacob's ladder, salvia, coreopsis/tickseed.

Cut the entire spent flower stem off to either a sideshoot or to the plant's base on: baby's breath, bleeding heart, cardinal flower, catmint, coral bells, foamflower, gaura, Jupiter's beard, lavender, lupine, mullein, painted daisy, pincushion flower, coneflower, Shasta daisy, speedwell, spiderwort, Stoke's aster.

(Listening to The Grateful Dead while deadheading is, of course, optional.)

Lawns are put to the test this time of year. Any weakness in water coverage, soil nutrition, or weed control shows up in the heat of summer. Now is the time to recheck your sprinkler system. Plugged or broken heads need to be fixed or replaced. Brown patterned circles in your lawn generally indicate a sprinkler head has been plugged by a grain of sand or has become a victim of a vicious lawn mower attack.

The irrigation system in flower beds should also be inspected. Many times we plant in front of a sprinkler. This is not a problem when the plant is small, but it can result in disaster for other plants in the bed as the new guy grows and blocks the water for the others. Make the necessary adjustment and watch your plants flourish.

The Japanese beetle was first discovered in the United States in Riverton, New Jersey, in 1916. It spread rapidly in the United States and has now become a pest in more than 20 states. More than 400 plant species are susceptible to attack by this pest.

The Japanese beetle is brilliantly colored, oval, and less than half an inch long. Wing colors are coppery, and the body is a beautiful metallic green. The adults feed in the daytime from early June to Labor Day. They devour leaves as well as flowers on many ornamental plants, shrubs, vines and trees. The leaf tissue is eaten between the veins so that the foliage looks somewhat like lace. Beetle grubs feed on plant roots, attacking mainly lawn turf but also damaging the roots of many other crop and ornamental plants.

When populations of adult beetles are too high to pick by hand or when damage to desirable plants in your landscaping is noticeable, you should treat the plants to bring the population down to a manageable level with an insect spray.

Treating ornamental plants will also help reduce the numbers of eggs being deposited in the soil close to or under your lawn, but it is not a substitute for controlling Japanese beetle white grub infestations as a stand-alone pest control method. For that, we recommend a yearly application of a time-release insect control product, which will both control and help prevent damaging infestations in grasses.