Many enthusiastically consider the camellia "Queen of the Garden," especially while roses are quietly resting. Ok, so our roses in the west don't begin to rest until we forcefully, but of course sadly, decide that we must cut them back in January. Luckily for us, beginning in September and continuing into the Spring, the camellia brings elegant floral form and color into our gardens.

They are wonderful in the garden as a standard and single focal point, en masse, or as a container plant. This shrub has beautifully rich, dark green shiny foliage and when pruned properly, gorgeous plant form, thereby contributing to the beauty of a garden year round. Other positive attributes include the fact that camellias are relatively pest- and disease-free. What more could you ask for?

The two major groups of camellias are Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Camellia japonicas bloom January through May. They have larger, glossy green leaves and flowers that are not fragrant. These camellias are evergreen and prefer to be planted in dappled shade and even deep shade. Camellia sasanquas bloom from September through December. They have smaller leaves and depending on the variety, will grow in full sun or deep shade. They are wonderful as a specimen plant, unclipped.

There are many bloom types to consider when choosing your camellia: anemone, rose, single, formal double, peony, and many more. Both the C. japonica and C. sasanqua have many varieties to choose from. When making your selection, consider not only bloom form and color but also bloom time. You can have your camellias blooming from September into May with a wise and thought out selection. Bloom form is important to most of us. If you live by the coast, talk with your nurseryperson to be sure that a more complex form with a higher petal count will open fully in spite of the morning and afternoon damp fog. Don't despair, there are varieties equally beautiful but with a simpler form. There are so many attributes to each flower type that you just have to see them to appreciate them fully.

Plant your new camellia to give this wonderful plant the best start in your garden. Take care to plant the root ball slightly higher than the soil line, not lower. Once your camellias are loaded with buds, do not feed them. Have you ever fertilized your heavily laden-with-flower-buds camellia shrub, thinking of course that you are helping the buds to burst into fabulous color, only to be horrified when they all fell off? The camellia does not want fertilizer once the buds are set. Don't worry, the plant will reward you fully without any additional food.

Once the bloom time is complete in the spring, you'll want to use an excellent all-around fertilizer, to give a healthy boost and reward your plants for their colorful winter flower "show."

Are you considering a new landscape for next year? If you're tired of your old garden look or have a brand new yard that needs landscaping, consider our team for all of your design and installation needs.

Green Arrow Nursery are experts in landscape design. We know which plants grow well in our area, and our design team is knowledgeable in all of the latest plant introductions and landscape techniques.

We work with you to design and create a look that is unique for you and truly reflects your needs and desires. But many people make the mistake of contacting us in spring when we are already booked up for most of the year. It takes time to design a landscape plan for your home, and we invite you to plan ahead and let us design your landscape plan now so we can add you to our work schedule when the weather warms in spring.

Give us a call today at (818)894-8306. We're here to make sure all of your garden dreams come true!

Gloxinia (Sinningia Speciosa) can make a colorful addition to your garden during the dreary days of winter. Their massive, deep-throated flowers come in many color combinations and put on quite a show.

Gloxinias, native to Brazil, are related to African violets. Their luxuriant, quilted, velvety leaves can grow up to six inches long, and they produce ruffled bell-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, red, blue, and purple with contrasting edges.

With a small amount of attention and care, you'll be able to get this tuberous plant to re-bloom several times before it goes dormant the following growing season. Gloxinias do best in consistent indoor temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees. They bloom best in a bright but indirect light location. Growing in low light will cause the flowers to be small and pale.

Gloxinias prefer moderately moist soil--but take care not to overwater, as this can prevent buds from developing. Try to lift the leaves before watering and allow the water to enter directly to the soil. Splashing water on the leaves can cause yellow spots.

Water thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Do not allow your plants to stand in water. If using bowls underneath your pots, make sure to empty the water from the bowl after each watering.

It is important to feed your plants regularly (every two weeks) while your plant is growing strongly and blooming. We recommend Gro-Power Liquid Fertilizer.

Most plants will bloom for 6 to 8 weeks and then take a short break before producing a new set of blooms. Discontinue feeding once the plants start dying back before entering dormancy. Gently remove the spent blooms after each flowering cycle.

It is best to repot gloxinias when they go dormant, so the plants can produce new growth in a larger pot with fresh soil. Then sit back and wait for new growth to appear for the following season and enjoy all over again!

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Many gardeners are saddened when the weather begins cooling, because they believe the colder weather will hail the end of color in their garden. A yard filled with beautiful flowers in summer and fall suddenly seems impossible to duplicate when the weather is cold and the sun is hiding. But there are two plants that are becoming increasingly popular for cheering up winter gardens.

Let us introduce you to "flowering cabbage" and "ornamental kale." These ornamental plants look much the same as their cousins bred for the table, but have been bred specifically for their showy colors and ruffled foliage. They come in a variety of colors, ranging from white to pinks, purples, or reds. (The ornamentals are edible, but not bred for taste.)

More important, these plants can survive winter temperatures as low as 5 degrees (and with some protection, they can survive even lower temperatures). While a sudden severe cold can be deadly to seedlings or new transplants, these plants will do just fine if given time to acclimate. What is more interesting, a light to moderate frost will even help intensify their brilliant colors. They actually prefer the cold and don't do at all well in the summer months.

Both flowering cabbage and ornamental kale prefer to be planted in the full sun but will tolerate some shade (although their colors might not be as intense). As with all other annuals, they do best when planted in rich soil. So, for best results, amend the soil with Kellogg Amend before planting. We also recommend feeding them every two weeks with E. B. Stone All Purpose Organic Fertilizer to keep them looking their best. In addition, they do very well in pots, making them great for adding a bit of color on patios and around entrances.

How often should I water my potted plants?

Answer:

Outdoor potted plants tend to dry out more quickly and require more water than plants planted in the landscape. This is because potting soils are lighter in composition and less compact than garden soil. The size of the container also limits the water holding capacity. Watering potted plants once a day, or even twice daily, may be necessary--especially if the weather turns hot and windy or your containers are in full sunlight.

Indoors, most potted plants tend to be over-watered. They generally don't need to be watered more than once or twice per week.

The important thing is to check moisture levels often. If the potting soil appears pale or cracked, or feels dry below the soil's surface, then it's time to water. If plants are wilted and droopy, (or just in a plain old bad mood) then they're already seriously stressed and in need of immediate watering and potentially a trip to a therapist.

The use of a moisture meter can be very helpful. If you don't own a moisture meter, get one--it's better than using your fingers to check, and you'll cut way down on your manicure bills.

The idea is to water thoroughly but allow enough time between waterings for the soil to begin drying out. If the potting soil remains soggy for too long, air will be forced away from the roots and your plants may suffocate or drown.

Don't let plants sit in standing water. If a saucer is used under a container, make sure that it does not remain wet for more than an hour or two after watering. Poor drainage and damp soil conditions favor root-killing disease fungi that can develop as root rot and cause the plant to die.

If a potted plant gets too dry, stand the container in a bucket of water so that it can soak water right up into the soil. This is a better method than watering with a hose or can; in that case, the water will run straight through and around the dry soil where it has shrunk away from the side of the pot.

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