1. Plant irises, canned roses, tropicals and tuberoses.
2. Transplant potted bulbs into the ground.
3. Replace cool-season bedding flowers with summer-season flowers.
4. Plant zinnias and other heat loving flowers.
5. Plant morning glories.
6. Plant warm-season lawns.
7. Continue to plant summer vegetables.
8. Replace parsley if you haven't already done so.
9. Plant a giant pumpkin for Halloween.
10. Purchase, plant, and transplant succulents.
11. Stop pinching fuchsias if you did not do so last month.
12. Thin out fruit on deciduous fruit trees.
13. Pinch dahlias back when the plant has three sets of leaves; tie the plant up as it grows.
14. Continue to pick and deadhead roses.
15. Divide and repot cymbidiums that have outgrown their containers.
16. Cut off bloom spikes from cymbidiums after flowers fade.
17. Prune camellias if you have not already done so.
18. Clean and prune azaleas.
19. Divide and mount staghorn ferns.
20. Prune winter- and spring-flowering vines, shrubs, trees and ground covers after they finish blooming.
21. Continue to tie up and sucker tomatoes.
22. Remove berries (seed pods) from fuchsias after flowers fall.
23. Pinch back petunias when you plant them.
24. Continue to prune and train espaliers.
25. Feed citrus trees, avocado trees.
26. Feed fuchsias, azaleas, tuberous begonias, water lilies.
27. Feed roses, ferns, flower beds, camellias after they bloom.
28. Fertilize lawns.
29. Side-dress vegetable rows with fertilizer.
30. Feed all container-grown succulents with a well-diluted complete liquid fertilizer.
31. Fertilize peppers when flowers first show.
32. As the weather becomes drier, be sure to water most garden plants regularly.
32a. Do not water succulents.
32b. Taper off watering those California native plants that don't accept summer water.
33. Control rose pests and diseases.
34. Spray junipers and Italian cypress for juniper moths.
35. Control mildew.
36. Control pests on vegetables.
37. Control weeds among permanent plants by mulching or cultivating.
38. Control weeds among vegetables and flowers by hand-pulling.
39. Keep bamboo from running into your neighbor's garden.
40. Harvest vegetables regularly.

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Spireas are some of the easiest flowering shrubs to grow in the garden. Once established, they require very little care and reward gardeners with an abundance of showy blooms from early spring through the end of summer. You know that spring has truly arrived once spireas put on their dazzling display of blooms.

There are two distinct kinds of spireas: the bridal wreath type, with clusters of white flowers on arching branches in spring, and the shrubby, mounding, much lower-growing type, which has pink, red or white flowers clustered at the end of upright branches from late spring to fall.

These deciduous plants thrive in full sun locations and also perform well in part shade. The only maintenance needed is a light pruning after their initial bloom cycle is completed, and in early spring before they leaf out to remove any of the previous year's old flowers.

Stop by and see these beautiful shrubs in all of their dazzling color. They're waiting for you to take them home today!

Click here to see pictures of some lovely spirea.

Are you looking for an attractive flowering vine to cover your fence? Consider the new 'Harlequin' honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum). This deciduous vine is a vigorous climber with handsome variegated foliage that sports cream edges with pink highlights. It bears pink buds that open into fragrant, creamy white blooms that age to golden yellow. The blooms begin in late spring and continue intermittently until fall.  

'Harlequin' can be planted in full sun or part shade condition. The overall effect of this vine in any part of the garden is positively glowing and it has great fall foliage as well! You can prune it as a shrub or train it up against a wall, trellis or arbor. So give that boring fence the kick in the pants it needs. Cover it with the beautiful 'Harlequin' honeysuckle. Hurry in and get yours today! 

Are you considering a new landscape for next year? If you're tired of your old garden look or have a brand new yard that needs landscaping, consider our team for all of your design and installation needs.

Green Arrow Nursery Consultants are experts in landscape design. We know which plants grow well in our area, and our design team is knowledgeable in all of the latest plant introductions and landscape techniques.

We work with you to design and create a look that is unique for you and truly reflects your needs and desires. But many people make the mistake of contacting us in late spring when we are already booked up for most of the year. It takes time to design a landscape plan for your home, and we invite you to plan ahead and let us design your landscape plan now so we can add you to our work schedule.

Give us a call today at (818)894-8306. We're here to make sure all of your garden dreams come true!

When planning a landscape, it's important to look at the whole area at once. Most of us tend to focus on one area and miss others. Perhaps the most overlooked area in landscaping is the area by the curb--or between the sidewalk and the curb. It is the first area visitors (and potential buyers) see, yet often it receives the least thought and attention in the garden. Landscaping this area can also be more challenging because of heavy foot traffic, reflective heat from the street (and the sidewalk, if you have one) unique water needs, and city codes.

Many times homeowners opt to just fill these areas in with lawn, but turf in a curb area does little to add any visual appeal, requires weekly maintenance, and uses a lot of water. With a little planning, grass can be replaced with sturdy ground cover plants and/or drought tolerant shrubs, and then finished off with decorative mulch.

It's important to use mostly low mounding plants so you don't obscure the view of your home. This also allows small children to be better aware of traffic. You might choose dwarf versions of barberry, breath of heaven, cotoneaster, escallonia, germander, holly, Indian hawthorn, juniper, potentilla, spirea and weigela.

To add some texture and interest to the area, consider grassy-textured plants such as dwarf Lily of the Nile, daylilies, fortnight lily, dwarf New Zealand Flax or Mexican feather grass. If more color is desired, add hardy perennials such as cranesbill, gaura, lamb's ears, lavender, meadow sage and yarrow.

Complete the design with hardy, sun-loving groundcover like gazania, ornamental strawberry, trailing lantana, dwarf heavenly bamboo, or creeping thyme. To help get all of your plants established faster and to give the area a finished look, top-dress with a decorative mulch. This will also help keep the ground moist longer between each watering.

Curb areas don't have to be difficult and they certainly don't have to be boring. Give your curb the attention it deserves and make it the first thing people notice about your home. Just click on the gallery link to get started. Then stop by and one of our garden experts will be happy to help you design a curb area with beauty and appeal.

Don't be confused by all those letters and numbers! The N-P-K letters stand for Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. (The “K” is the chemical initial for potassium.) On each fertilizer label, you will see the percentage of each of these primary nutrients in that fertilizer product. For example, a 10-20-20 fertilizer contains 10% nitrogen, 20% phosphorus, and 20% potassium.

These nutrients, called macronutrients, certainly aren't the only ones plants need, but plants use them in the greatest quantities. You'll sometimes hear the term "fertilizer ratios." This is simply the ratio of each to the other. Divide the numbers by the lowest number in the group of 3 and you will have the ratio. For instance, 10-20-20 would have a 1-2-2 ratio, and 15-15-15 would be 1-1-1.

Nitrogen is the nutrient most often in short supply in soils. It stimulates vegetative growth such as leaves and stems, and gives a lush green color to leaves. Phosphorus stimulates root growth, hastens flowering, and promotes increased disease-resistance, whereas potassium increases the size and quality of fruit and flowers, among other benefits.

The balance of these nutrients can be as important as how much you apply. For instance, a tomato may respond with lots of vegetative growth and few fruits if you give it too much nitrogen. If you give it too much phosphorus and potassium, and no nitrogen, the result can be a small plant that produces only a few tomatoes.

Other necessary secondary nutrients include magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca) and sulfur (S). Magnesium is the core chemical of chlorophyll in green leaves. Calcium is needed for strong cell wall formation and root growth. Sulfur acts together with nitrogen in plant cells.

And, not to confuse you, micronutrients are necessary as well. These are trace elements, present in very tiny amounts. Examples are zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn) and iron (Fe). Iron is also necessary for chlorophyll production.

If a plant has yellowing leaves, or chlorosis, the pattern of that yellowing is important for you to note.
• Yellow leaves that are smaller than normal – needs nitrogen
• Yellowing between the green veins – needs iron
• Veins lighter in color than the tissue between them – needs sulfur

Be sure to use a fertilizer that is specialized for the type of plant you are feeding and the right time of year for the application. If you are not sure, just ask one of us and we'll help you sort it out!