Many gardeners give up on their roses in the summer, believing they produce quality flowers only in the spring. Rose blossoms do tend to be smaller in the summer and the colors not quite as vivid because the summer heat forces the blooms to open before blossom size and color pigment have completely developed. But given the proper care, combined with a few simple pruning techniques, roses will re-bloom every six weeks until the first frost.

There are two ways to prune roses during the growing season, and both will encourage new blooms to set. Most roses have leaflets (with three to seven leaves) every couple of inches along the stems. In order to produce blooms you need to prune at least to the second five-leafed leaflet. (Pruning just above will eliminate nasty dead stems called coat hangers.)

If you also want to prune for size control, you can go as far down as two leaflets above the previous cut. Pruning beyond the previous cut tells the rose you don't want it to bloom. Remember that hybrid tea and grandiflora rose stems tend to grow at least 18 inches after each pruning before blooming, so if you prune only the minimum amount you will have a very tall (and possibly leggy) rose by the end of summer.

Because roses are constantly growing, they are in constant need of food. It's important to feed roses every 6-8 weeks with a quality rose food like Whitney Farms Rose & Flower Fertilizer. Continue feeding through September, and you will have quality rose blooms into fall. So don't give up on your roses. With a little help, they will provide loads of blooms for you all season long.

Grasshoppers are among the most difficult insect pests to manage in the garden. When numbers are low, they can be hand-picked and squashed. Floating row covers and other protective covers provide some protection if their numbers are not high. However, grasshoppers will eat through cloth or plastic row covers if they are hungry enough.

Most grasshoppers are general feeders, but they prefer young, green plants, especially lettuce, beans, corn, carrots, onions, and some annual flowers. Grasshoppers do their damage by chewing and can remove large sections of leaves and flowers in one sitting, sometimes devouring an entire plant. An odd grasshopper here and there is nothing to be alarmed about, but should you face a full invasion, there are some steps you can take to combat this destructive pest.

The best way to control grasshoppers is to apply a bait containing carbaryl around the borders of your garden. Make sure to re-apply baits after any period of rain. For non-edible plants, you can also use a spray directly on the plants. It usually helps to do a repeat spray every couple of weeks until they leave your garden. Make sure to spray late in the evening or early morning when bee activity is lower; you don't want to kill our important pollinators.

How often should I add mulch to my garden and how much should I use?

Answer:
Most types of mulch take a few years to break down and decompose. How much you use--and how often--depends on why you are using it.

• If you are just looking for aesthetics, maintain at least a 1" layer of mulch over your native soil.
• If you are also trying to suppress weed growth and want your soil to retain more moisture, we recommend maintaining a 2-3" layer of mulch around your plants.
• Always make sure to leave a little space around the stem base of bushes or tree trunks. This prevents rotting and allows your plants to get more oxygen.

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White grubs are damaging pests that begin invading lawns in early spring and again in summer. Grubs do their damage below ground, so the problem often goes undetected until too late. Beetle grubs can turn a fine looking lawn into a patchwork quilt of yellow spots. In addition, birds and other animals will often start digging up your lawn looking for the tasty grubs to feed on.

The grubs are actually larvae of beetles and other insects; most are C-shaped and off-white with a dark head.

There are several types of grubs that are capable of damaging lawns, with two life cycles in a year. When you have grubs, the damaged areas of grass can be easily lifted and many times the grubs can be seen feeding on the edge of the healthy grass in the damaged area.

Natural controls include beneficial nematodes or milky spore (a disease that specifically attacks Japanese beetle grubs), although it takes a number of applications for milky spore to become established in lawns. It's an excellent long-term solution, but doesn't help much right now.

There are chemical products that are very effective for a grub problem, but only at certain times of year. We recommend Bayer Advanced Grub Control for this time of year.

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Let's face it, working in your garden or watering your lawn is not easy while yellow jackets are buzzing around you. The yellowjacket could be searching for food or trying to protect the nest it carefully constructed during the past season.

Although wasps are helpful in pollination, and some varieties actually feed on insects such as caterpillars and other crop-destroying bugs, their venom can be harmful to those who are allergic to stings.

There are several ways to protect your garden visitors from the yellow jacket. The most natural way is by prevention. Wasps are attracted to food sources by smell, so eliminating any type of food such as soda or protein will keep these critters away. Do not squish a wasp, as the bug releases a pheromone that attracts others of its kind. Even worse, if you swat at the yellowjacket and miss, it will only defend itself by trying to sting you.

The easiest way to remove yellow jackets from your garden is by using a trap. The yellow jackets will enter the trap and get stuck. When using a trap, be sure to empty it weekly. We suggest placing a few strategically in different parts of the garden (away from entertaining areas) for best results. You can also spray the nest, if it is not near any vegetables or herbs. Note that spraying does put you in danger of being stung.

The sage (Salvia) family is one of the most adaptable, dependable and beautiful species of perennials for home gardens. Sages are closely related to the mint family and can be grown as herbs and ornamental plants. They can be found naturally in almost every country in the world.

In addition to the natural beauty of sage, many also have a medicinal attribute to them. (The name "salvia" comes from the Latin word "salvare," meaning "to heal.") Indeed, many varieties are highly regarded for their healing qualities. The ancient Greeks used it to treat ulcers and snake bites.

The Romans considered sage a sacred herb and followed an elaborate ceremony when harvesting it. They also used sage for toothpaste, and believed it to be good for the mind and senses.

More important today, however, is the beauty that sage can add to your home landscape. Most flowering varieties bloom reliably from spring through fall and come in a vast array of colors. They require very little maintenance, have only moderate water and fertilizer requirements and virtually no pest problems.

Sage plants also attract plenty of wildlife--including hummingbirds, butterflies and many beneficial insects--to the garden. We stock a great selection of salvia and invite you to visit us throughout the year as different species become available. Our Sage List will help you discover the many varieties just waiting to find a home in your garden!